An Honest guide Babajis Cave in Kukuchina, Nainital, Dunagiri area and travelling there as many people have created Youtube videos around the area however I find that they white wash the trip and what you experience travelling there and what it is like.
Neem Karoli Baba Ashram Nainital
Starting early around 6am we began to make our way to the Ashram of Neem Karoli Baba, where it is said His ashes are stored. Some background on the Ashram and Neem Karoli Baba, who is considered to be an incarnation of Hanuman.
Kainchi Dham is a beautiful secluded mountain ashram located in the Kumaon Hills in Uttarakand. The first temple was inaugurated in June 1964. It is approximately 38 km from Nainital. Many hundreds of people visit the temples here every day, in season.
From the website of the Ashram:
It was some time in 1962 when Maharajji called for Shri Poornanand of Kainchi village while he himself waited sitting on parapet wall by the road side near Kainchi. When he came, they refreshed the memories of their first meeting which they had 20 years back in 1942. They discussed about the place around. Maharajji wanted to see the place where Sadhu Premi Baba and Sombari Maharaj had lived and performed Yagyas. The forest was cleared and Maharajji asked for the construction of a Chabootara (rectangular platform) covering the Yagyashala. Maharajji contacted the then “conservator of forests” and took possession of the requisite land on lease.
The Hanuman temple is built over the platform mentioned above. His devotees started coming from different places and a chain of bhandaras, kirtans, bhajans started. The Pran-Pratishtha of idols of Hanumanji and others was performed on 15th June in different years. Thus, 15th June is celebrated every year as Pratishtha Divas when a large number of devotees come to Kainchi and get Prasad. The number of devotees and the associated vehicular traffic is so large that the district administration has to make special arrangement to regulate the same. Accordingly some changes have been made in the whole complex so that people do not face any difficulty in movement.
Babaji left His physical body in the night of 10 September 1973. The Kalash containing His ashes was already installed in Shri Kainchi dham.Then, without any plan and design the construction work of Baba’s temple began in 1974. All His devotees cooperated (voluntarily).
The artisans and masons engaged in the construction work has an early bath and wearing clean clothes began work, reciting Hanuman Chalissa and chanting “Maharajji Ki Jai” (glory to Maharajji). When the construction work was on, the devotees also recited Hanuman Chalissaand did Kirtan by singing (Shri Rama – Jai Rama – Jai Jai Rama), Mothers also writing “Ramnam” on the bricks passed them on to the workers. The whole atmosphere vibrated with the chanting of “Baba Neem Karoli Maharaj Ki Jai”. Influenced by the ardent devotion of the Mothers for Babaji, the workers also developed the same feeling of devotion, faith, reverance and love. It was Babaji’s lila that he infused these workers with the qualities of Vishwakarma (the architect of Gods) and they remained busy with the construction work.
Now came 15th June 1976, the day for installation and consecration of Maharajji’s murti. Maharaji Himself had fixed June 15th as the consecration of Kainchidham.
The Bhagwat saptah and yajna etc. were completed before the installation and consecration ceremony. The devotees installed Kalash and hoisted flag on the temple with the sound of bells, gongs, drums and conches.The sky vibrated with the sound of clapping. Kirtan and slogans of glory to Babaji. The atmosphere was ecstatic and everyone had the feeling of Babaji Maharaj’s physical presence. Then with recitation of hymns from Vedas and with the specified method of consecration ceremony and worship, Maharajji’s murti was installed. In this way, Babaji Maharaj in the form of a murti is seated in Shri Kainchi Dham.
Our Journey to Neem Karoli Baba’s Ashram
We arrived just after 7 AM, right in the middle of the morning aarti. There was already a queue, but the wait wasn’t too long—about 15 minutes. However, once inside, there wasn’t much time to linger; the flow of visitors was constant, and we were gently ushered through and out.
A Jarring Contrast
Parking near the ashram was a bit of a shock. The area surrounding the holy site was covered in litter and waste, something I struggled to understand. This wasn’t just here—it was a recurring theme throughout our journey. It was almost as if people viewed the sacred site as pure, but everything outside it as fair game for trash.
The Atmosphere & Experience
As we stood in line, the air was cool and crisp, but the continuous chants of “Jai Sri Ram! Jai Sri Ram!” filled the space with warmth and power, making us forget the morning chill.
Inside the ashram, phones were strictly not allowed. A few people attempted to sneak pictures, but security and the pujari immediately checked their phones and deleted them.
Even without photos, the experience left a deep imprint. The energy of Neem Karoli Baba was palpable—a unique mix of peace and power, like being wrapped in golden light.
A Fleeting but Profound Encounter
Though we only spent about 30 minutes inside, the presence of his relics made it easy to understand why the energy felt so potent. Leaving the ashram, there was an undeniable sense of deep love and serenity, as if we had been blessed in a way that words couldn’t quite capture.
One can only imagine what it must have been like to be there when Neem Karoli Baba was physically present—the energy must have been beyond words.
Nainital to Kukuchina - Mahavatar Bababji's Cave and Joshi Guest House
Into the Heart of the Himalayas
After a beautiful time at Kainchi Dham, we set out to find another Kriya Ashram, but Google Maps had other plans. Eventually, we gave up on the search and decided to head straight to Joshi’s Guest House.
Though the drive wasn’t long, it was brutal. Those who didn’t sleep watched the endless winding roads stretch on and on. But as we ventured deeper into the Himalayas, the scenery became breathtaking. The noise of honking cars and city life faded into a distant memory, replaced by the stillness of the mountains.
One of our group members skipped their motion sickness medication, which caught up with them about an hour before our destination. This turned what should have been a smooth ride into a series of frequent stops, extending the journey by an extra 45 minutes.
Apart from Delhi’s thick smog and fog, the weather throughout our journey had been surprisingly beautiful, despite the time of year. As we climbed higher into the Himalayas, we could see a thick cloud cover below us, while clear skies and golden sunlight surrounded us. The contrast was mesmerizing, making the entire experience feel almost otherworldly.
Joshi Guest House
Our Home in the Himalayas
For the next six days, this was to be our home away from home. We weren’t entirely sure what to expect, but communication with Joshi’s Guest House had been seamless—every question I asked via WhatsApp was answered quickly and helpfully.
The accommodation was simple but comfortable, nothing fancy. Bucket showers were the norm, but the water was hot, and while it took some time to adjust, it became a source of laughter over dinner each night. By the end of our stay, everyone had developed their own showering strategy—a mix of efficiency and survival to stay warm.
During the day, the weather was warm, but as the sun set, the temperature dropped to freezing.
The People Behind the Place
Joshi and his son now run the guest house, and from our experience, they weren’t interested in squeezing every cent out of us—they genuinely wanted us to have a great experience. For example, they never charged us for the room heaters or extra kettle, saying instead, “Just give the three people who cook and clean an extra tip.”
Joshi became our “Godfather of Dunagiri”, always sitting on a bench in front of the shop below the accommodation, chatting with the locals who came by.
Development is Changing Dunagiri
One thing that stood out was the rapid development of the area. New guest houses and accommodations were being built everywhere, and even during our hour-long hike to Babaji’s Cave, we could hear construction sounds in the distance.
If you plan to visit for deep meditation and solitude, I’d recommend going sooner rather than later, before the area changes even more.
Interestingly, we had the place to ourselves—apart from the locals, we barely saw any other travelers. It seems that most visitors stay an hour away, drive in, hike to Babaji’s Cave, meditate for a bit, and then leave.
Pros & Cons of the Stay
The Cons
The Bed/Mattress… LOL
After the long, grueling drive, I jumped onto my bed only to realize the mattress was harder than the floor. Initially, it felt unbearable, but after three days, I actually started feeling great—it turned out to be Ayurvedic therapy in disguise!
However, we did have to turn over every hour or so to avoid waking up with pain. I mentioned this to Joshi, especially given all the new accommodations coming up.
The Bucket Shower
I personally didn’t mind it, and by the end, I actually enjoyed it. But for some in our group, it was tough—really tough. A few were mentally defeated early on, but that humble bucket became the source of endless jokes at dinner.
The Pros
The Location
Being in the Himalayas, so close to Babaji’s Cave, was exactly why we were there.
The Rooms
Spacious and clean. There were smaller single rooms, but overall, the accommodation was comfortable.
The People
The staff were super friendly and helpful. Every day, they would ask us about breakfast, lunch, and dinner, tailoring meals to our needs.
The Food
Simple, clean, and absolutely amazing. There was no rationing—no “Oh, you had two rotis, that’s extra.” They just kept feeding us!
Arriving with stomach issues from the drive, we all left feeling better, thanks to the fresh, nourishing food. In fact, as we moved on, we actually missed it.
A Reality Check
India constantly reminds you how easy things are in the West. At one point, someone in our group asked for toast, and they simply replied, “We can’t get bread up here.”
Something so small that we take for granted… After that, our appreciation for the food and the people deepened even more.
