An Honest guide Babajis Cave in Kukuchina Nainital, Dunagiri area and travelling there as many people have created Youtube videos around the area however I find that they white wash the trip and what you experience travelling there and what it is like.
The Calling
January 2025, for 15 days, we embarked on the Journey to Stillness Pilgrimage—a journey guided by Mahavatar Babaji.
How did it start? That’s always an interesting story. The moment I knew, I knew. There was no going back.
It was August 2024, 5 AM, and I was sitting in front of the altar at the Kriya Yoga Centre in Cape Town, deep in meditation, doing Kriya. Then, I heard this voice—had an intuition—was guided—got a message… lol, however it makes sense to you.
The message was clear: Come to the Kumbha Mela in January 2025.
At the time, I had no idea that the Kumbha Mela was even happening. But after finishing my morning Kriya and sadhana, my social media started lighting up with posts about Kumbha Mela 2025.
The second part of the message? Bring people. Travel the footsteps of the Kriya Yogis who encountered Mahavatar Babaji. Go to the places He blessed.
Ok, ok, ok… message received. Now, I had to make it a reality.
The Journey Begins
And so, Journey to Stillness was born—finding Mahavatar Babaji’s grace, tracing His presence, and surrendering to where He led us.
Between August 2024 and January 2025, it was an intense and beautiful period of rediscovery. I had read Autobiography of a Yogi four times before, but this time was different. This time, we weren’t just reading—we were tracing the journey in real life, connecting the dots between the sacred places mentioned in the book.
Everything—the grace, the blessings, the way things effortlessly fell into place—I can only lay at the Master’s feet. It was truly Babaji who orchestrated every aspect of the journey with His love and guidance.
The trip itself? Babaji laid breadcrumbs—tiny moments of intuition during sadhana, glimpses of guidance in moments of stillness. Our job was to pick them up, take action, and trust the path unfolding before us.
That’s the thing—the Divine always plants these seeds. It’s up to us to move forward, carrying awareness of the Divine in every step.
The Experience
Our accommodation? Comfortable, not luxurious—because that wasn’t the point. The goal was to live in the energy of these sacred places, to be immersed in the experience, to stay among the locals and truly be in the mix. And honestly, that was one of the most beautiful parts of the pilgrimage.
The food? Incredible. Every single day. And not a single person in the group got sick.
Babaji made sure—no matter what—we were always taken care of and always focused on Him.
Guru Brahma – The Guru is Brahma, the Creator
Guru Vishnu – The Guru is Vishnu, the Organizer
Guru Devo Maheshwara – The Guru is Maheshwara, the Destroyer
Guru Sakshat Parabrahma – The Guru is the Supreme God, or Parabrahma
Tasmai Shri Gurave Namaha – My salutation to the lotus-petaled feet of the Guru
In the months leading up to the journey, we had been doing a 40-day guided meditation with Mahavatar Babaji, aligning ourselves with His energy and grace. If you’re called to Babaji’s presence, I highly recommend it—it’s a powerful practice.
Youtube: 40 Day Guided Meditation
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The Road to Babaji’s Cave
The first thing you need to know—it’s a long and brutal drive. No matter which way you approach Babaji’s Cave in Nainital, you’re in for a journey.
We flew into Delhi, and from there, there were options—drive, train, or a flight to Pantnagar. We had some devotees join us from Rishikesh, but no matter which route you take, the last leg of the journey is unforgiving. Long hours, unpredictable roads, but moments of pure awe when the mountains start revealing themselves.
If you’re driving from Delhi, you have to break up the trip. We stopped in Nainital because about an hour beyond that, the roads become something else entirely. You start climbing—and it’s just winding and winding and winding.
I’ve driven winding roads before, but these? OMG. Another level. If you get carsick, take the tablets. One person in our group learned that the hard way. Even I, who never gets motion sickness, had to breathe deep and use some breathwork to keep steady.
For a smoother trip, you can fly from Delhi to Pantnagar (PGH), which leaves you with a 5-hour drive to Babaji’s Cave. We ended up taking this option later when traveling to Varanasi.
Regardless of how you get there, the reality is—you will need a car or taxi. The region is isolated, and getting around requires some planning.
India—The Reality
India is intense.
It’s a place of contrasts—deep poverty, relentless hustle, unimaginable beauty, and a spiritual presence that leaves you in awe.
As a foreigner, the biggest challenge isn’t the travel itself—it’s figuring out what’s real. Online images and descriptions? They often don’t match reality. If they did, some places would go out of business. You book something, you arrive, and then—either you embrace the experience, or you scramble to find something else.
That’s India. It flows, and you have to flow with it.
If you do, it will open itself to you in ways you never expected. If you resist, judge, or fight it—India will chew you up and spit you out.
This journey wasn’t just about reaching Babaji’s Cave—it was about surrender. Letting go of expectations, trusting the unknown, and allowing grace to guide every step.
And that? That’s where the real magic happens.
Landing in Delhi – January 1, 2025
Delhi is not a place I’d spend more time than absolutely necessary. The moment we landed, we headed straight to our hotel.
For the airport transfer, I used Booking.com’s service—it was cheaper than the hotel’s transfer option, and we got a car for seven people. Plus, I could book in advance and pay in our local currency, which made things a lot smoother.
Our Stay in Delhi
We stayed at Hotel Emporio DX – New Delhi, about a 30-minute drive from the airport and close to the main train station. It was modest but had good rooms. The better rooms are on the top floor—I believe they are the King Rooms. The Deluxe Double rooms were noticeably smaller and not as clean.
For the first two nights in Delhi, we were on the 4th floor, and the experience was decent. When we returned on January 16th after our delayed Bharat Express train (5-hour delay!), they put us on the 2nd floor, where the rooms were smaller and not as well-maintained. But for the first two nights, the location was central, which made getting around much easier.
If you want something more upscale, there are high-end hotels near the airport, but you’ll have to deal with long drives if you actually want to see Delhi.
First Evening – Finding Stillness in the Chaos
Dinner was from Hare Krishna Govinda’s, a clean and really nice restaurant. That night, all of Delhi was packed—getting into any temple was nearly impossible unless you were willing to wait for an hour or two.
But then, we found a gem—Laxmi Narayan Temple, near our accommodation. It was peaceful, not busy (which was surprising), and absolutely beautiful. The energy there was serene, and the deities were beyond words.
As with every evening of the pilgrimage, I spent the night performing Abhishek prayers to my deities and Saligrams, offering prasad, and then having dinner.
Preparing for the Long Drive
The next morning, we had a 6 AM departure ahead of us—a long journey lay ahead. Everyone could feel the anticipation building.
All except one of us had been practicing Kriya Yoga for a while. The one who hadn’t? They were to receive Shaktipat inside Babaji’s Cave.
The Journey to Babaji’s Cave – Choosing the Right Transport
Finding a trustworthy transport company was a mission. There are tons of scams online—many ask for payment upfront, and then… well, let’s just say things don’t go as planned.
After a lot of research and endless internet trolling, I found Stayfari.
We needed a dedicated vehicle because we planned to visit various sacred sites on the way to Babaji’s Cave, and once up there, we wanted flexibility. Trying to arrange taxis every step of the way wasn’t an option with six people on pilgrimage.
Stayfari – Worth It?
Stayfari is not cheap for 5–6 days, but it was worth it. We got a luxury SUV, a dedicated driver, and the freedom to travel anywhere in the Dunagiri area without the stress of booking taxis. Plus, at the end of our time there, we were dropped off at Pantnagar Airport for our flight to Varanasi.
They did promise us an English-speaking driver… um, no, lol. That didn’t happen. Google Translate became our best friend.
To be fair, for two of the six days, the driver didn’t drive at all, and aside from the main drive up and the airport transfer, we only drove about 4–5 hours a day.
But what made Stayfari stand out was their behind-the-scenes service. They were responsive, reliable, and made things easy—especially in the Dunagiri area, where we could finalize the next day’s plan over an incredible dinner and then just do it without worrying about transport.
Would I use them again? Absolutely.
The Journey to Nainital – A Spiritual Gateway
Leaving Delhi at 6 AM, we began our drive to Nainital, a stunning spiritual hub known for Neem Karoli Baba’s Ashram, where his relics are kept and where he once lived. The region is filled with sacred sites, including Nainital Lake, believed to be formed from the tears of Sati, and a Shakti Peeth nearby.
However, Nainital is not a place to rush through—the traffic is wild, and the roads are even wilder. They’re narrow, winding, and require patience. If you want to explore all the temples and spiritual sites, you need at least a full day to get around.
Sacred Stops on the Way
After eight hours on the road, we arrived in Nainital around 2 PM, exhausted and hungry. Most of the drive wasn’t particularly scenic, but the two sacred stops we made along the way more than made up for it.
The first was a beautiful location associated with Neem Karoli Baba, filled with a deep sense of peace. The second was Pilot Baba’s temple, home to an incredible Durga Murti, a massive Hanuman Deity, and other stunning divine forms. The energy at both sites was powerful, setting the tone for the rest of our pilgrimage.
Checking into Hotel Vista Bhowali
Navigating Nainital’s chaotic roads was an adventure in itself, and finding our hotel, Vista Bhowali, required some careful maneuvering. The turn to get to the hotel is easy to miss, located just past the main intersection—a heads-up for anyone planning a visit.
The hotel itself was a mixed experience—some rooms were really nice, while others were cold and average. The second-floor rooms seemed to be the best. However, one thing that stood out was the restaurant’s food—it was excellent. We had a late lunch around 5:30 PM, and it was so filling that no one even needed dinner.
The hotel manager was another highlight. Unlike most of the staff (who spoke little to no English), he was incredibly helpful—even walking with us to find an ATM.
An Evening at the Kali Temple
After discussing our options, the manager advised against driving to Nainital Lake due to the heavy traffic. Instead, we decided to walk to a nearby temple we had seen on Google Maps—a choice that turned out to be one of the most beautiful decisions of the trip.
The temple was a simple but profoundly peaceful Kali temple. As we arrived, the priest was performing evening aarti, and we had the rare blessing of joining him. He led us through each deity’s aarti, allowing us to receive darshan and blessings.
We also met two sadhus performing a yagna, whose energy was as serene as the temple itself. The priest had been serving there for over 30 years, and his presence was as gentle and sweet as the Kali deity he worshipped.
Preparing for Babaji’s Cave
After returning to the hotel, we performed evening prayers and turned in early—our final leg to Babaji’s Cave awaited.
Initially, we had plans to visit more sacred sites along the way, but I woke up with a less-than-ideal stomach, so we adjusted our plans. The new plan: visit Neem Karoli Baba’s Ashram, then Babaji’s Cave.
The Brutal Winding Roads
This turned out to be a wise, wise decision. About 70% of the journey was on intense winding mountain roads, and one of our group members got severely car sick. We had to stop every 20 minutes so they could recover.
If you’re planning this trip, car sickness medication is a must. Even those who don’t normally get motion sickness (like myself) had to practice deep breathing and pranayama to stay steady.
Despite the road challenges, our anticipation for Babaji’s Cave kept us moving forward. The journey was as much about surrendering to the flow as it was about reaching the sacred destination.